Cycling Seoul to Busan on Day 3 took me from Yangpyeong 양평군 to Suanbo, total 123km.
(This is part of my 7D6N Korea 4 Rivers trail, total 680km and over 3500m elevation)
~~~ ~~~ 7D6N solo bikepacking itinerary ~~~ ~~~
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
*Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
Day7 95km Namji to Busan
~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~
On day 2, thunderstorm forced me to stop 30km short of Yeoju.
This is my day 3 Strava record, I needed to make up for Day 2 extra 30km.
Bikepacking Korea 4 Rivers Strava
When people hear Suanbo, they will remember the hotspring and Sauna town. When cyclists hear SUANBO, they will remember the two peaks!
Refer KakaoMap image below, you will see an elevation of 530m+ for the second peak.
It took me 45 min and 70 min respectively to submit first and second mountain. Second one stands at 530m, and is 4km long!
(If it helps, let me assure you that the elevation on Day 6, after Musimsa temple will be steeper :p )
Back to our Day 3 itinerary, I rode across the river and continued on my way.
You may refer to my Day 3 video below.( I also shared why you should choose another motel in Suanbo.)
Anyway, this is my Day 3 route and map. The highlights are:
1- Yeoju town
2- Gangcheonseom Island (stunning flowering and views in Spring and Autumn)
3- Skipped Andong(충주댐 인증센터), 25km to and fro trip.
Highlights of Bikepacking Day 3 Yeoju
Scenic pathway next to the river, with a mini lighthouse.
You will still see many farm lands and orchids along the route.
If time permits, I would have love to pick some apples or oranges.
My third day of consecutive cycling. Unless you are a triathlete, you should feel some strain from your leg and back. This is normal.
It did not take me long to encounter my first 10% climb at (GPS 37.4426950, 127.5151004). This would be super easy for MTB and road bikes, but slightly more challenging for small wheels with panniers.
If I had continued through the rain yesterday, it would have been miserable when I hit this slope. Wet, tired and climb. I might have missed the opportunity to find a motel to stay dry and safe.
This is part of the disadvantage of solo cycling. You do not have a buddy to help navigate or plan. Every decision, and detour has to be improvised on the GO.
One person ride disadvantages:
-Hard to have Plan B
-No one to pull or draft
-Self service. If fall or puncture, diy
-Navigate and ride on the go, ensure you are on the right segment
-Research for pit stop and meals
But I enjoy the challenges and FREEDOM from solo cycling! Cycling Seoul to Busan brought back epic memories for me
Other than the slopes, cycling in the countryside is always more scenic and relaxing compared to urban areas.
Fyi, it is the ‘unknown’ slopes ( or roller-coasters) which will wear you down. Smaller wheels and panniers will have it worse.
Talking and singing to oneself does help to break the monotonous ride.
How can you not stop to take a photo?
Plenty of fantastic rivers and mountainous view, and beautiful man-made dams. The journey and milestones are always more memorable than the endpoint.
Ipobo weir observatory in the background. I love these mini pavilions. Ideal for breaks, shelters and even camp.
Salute to those cross country cyclists who are into camping. you have to pack more things and “rough” it out in the cold.
As you find more phone booths, you might bump into other cyclists. We are all out to enjoy the day and adventures.
Many dams and bridges criss crossing the waterways.
Near to urban areas, you should be able to spot convenience stores and cafes. Cheesecake and flat white to refresh(Cafe 숲)
I left my bike unlocked across the road. It is very safe to leave your bikes unattended when you visit cafes or even loo. Do be vigilant 🙃
I admit. I felt uneasy leaving my bikes unattended.
In Singapore, folks will vandalise or even steal unattended bikes! (Sad).
Although we bikepack along the 4 rivers, there is always a Mountain range nearby! This is a big deal from Flat Singapore.
Once you see this helicopter (on the roof) or a gorilla sitting on a bench, you are in Yeogu. There will be a popular SunValley hotel nearby. This area was where I was supposed to end on Day 2.
Dams are maintained by K Water ( water agency). Do take a lift up the observation towers to enjoy a 360 view too.
15 degrees Autumn is best weather for bike packing. Feels like Aircon, but wind can be chilling at times. Balaclava is still recommended, the chill can get to you post-ride.
You will notice that Koreans are all covered up, learn from them.
Take note that temperature will drop South along cycling Seoul to Busan (via Gumi, Daegu, Namji etc). Morning 8am can be as cold as 8 degrees.
Many folks will come to this slope after Yeoju stretch. It is steep and bumpy. Not recommended to cycle down, unless you are riding a mtb.
Keep rolling. Blue signages will indicate your location and next town. You should be familiar with Papago app by now.
This App is a lifesaver to help you understand what you are ordering from your Korean menu.
I cycled into Gangcheonseom Island before noon. Cheekily nicknamed the ‘island’ as Singapore Coney Island.
This island is recommended during Spring and Autumn!
Yellow ginkgo welcomed me from every corner!
Some might tell you that gingko fruits have a fermented rotten smell.
Expect some mild trail tracks. It will be muddy after rain.
Checkout our Video 5min to view the magnificent Yellow views.
Only one item on the menu here. Friendly boss will gesture for you to sit, before he brings out the banchan (side dishes).
Delicious home cook comfort food and sweet seafood broth! Besides the ‘main dish’, I actually prefer savouring the various banchan!
Salty, spicy, sour or sweet, surprise me 😋
Flood warnings! Flooding is very common during rainy seasons. Entire pathways can be submerged, and cyclists will need to detour.
Bikepacking Korea flood warnings
Refer map picture below . I remembered this segment where I could roll for 10km with no cars behind! The whole countryside and road was mine to enjoy.
(37.1097688, 127.8094714) near Binaeseom Certification Center (비내섬 인증센터 (남한강 자전거길). If you cannot find the certification booth in Kakao Map, try ‘비내쉼터’.
Took a break at this pavilion. It is always interesting to people watch.
Otherwise, watching golden padi fields wavering in the wind is pretty cool too. Magnificent golden reflection from the sun.
Lovely planks parallel to the waterway.. I was a bit concerned that the moist leaves might be slippery.
It is much safer to cycle on the planks, instead of the narrow roads.
Besides the pagoda, there is a pavement which allows you to cycle above the water, pond. Expect scenic sunset or sunrise.
At this point (5pm), I already knew I needed two more hours to reach Suanbo. Quickly make a pitstop at emart24 to recharge. Topup water and carbohydrate (chocolate) for the last 20km.
Bikepacking Korea eMart
You never know when is the next ‘refilling’ point.
Cyclists do take note that Korea petrol stations do not sell food or drinks!
I ended around 7pm+, and had to cycle 10km in pitch dark (not cool). The only thing keeping me on the right path is KakaoMap navigation.
You can refer to video clip from 12min onwards here.
Cycling in the dark, Four Rivers trail
Fyi, I had researched whether it would make sense to rest only after clearing the two mountains. Ie, finding a motel in town Mungyrong. That would be extra 28km from Suanbo.
This is only recommended for strong cyclists.
The two climbs will wear you down. Refer to our Day 4 Video here.
Suanbo Park Hotel and hotel
I did not do my homework, and chose Suanbo Park Hotel. This hotel is ok but there are more affordable motels around.
Single pax room was out, thus I needed to pay 141 000 won for a twin room. Too expensive (I could have secured x2 decent motel for this rate) and I had no interest to use the sauna.
There was a STEEP 100m climb up the the hotel! (at least 15 to 20% gradient!) Please avoid the climb and choose motel near center Suanbo.
Suanbo motels
My dinner was pheasant bird, 10000 Won.
Try to rest early, as Day 4 will start with CLIMBS!
=== ===
RESOURCES:
a)Part 1 and 2 of my custom Google Map will share my route, F&B and motels from Seoul to Busan. Do take note that I did not follow 100% 4 Rivers Route, skip Andong, and I did not search for all the certification booths.
I have indicated “Purple markers” to represent Detours and Slopes.
(Part 1 Seoul to Sangju) Red dots depict the Certification Booths.
Bike boxing overseas was one of the challenges, when I decided to solo Seoul to Busan trail, aka 4 Rivers.
After 7D6N 680km in October 2023, I successfully completed the 4 rivers trail. This was a new milestone for me.
but, there were many doubts …
How should I plan my days, where should I stay? Will language and food be an issue? Can I scale the mountains? I will miss Google!
Surprisingly, the two initial doubts are those of bicycle boxing (and courier), and how to travel out of Incheon Airport with my bicycle!
What happens if my bike does not arrive? Or if damaged during transit?
It is always easier to rent a bike from Korea, but I wanted to challenge myself.
~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~
This is the first blog post of my journey, and I will focus on Bicycle Boxing and cycling out of Incheon airport (a novelty).
The next few posts will focus on the itinerary and experiences.
Summary and photos videos of my 7D6N journey.
1)7D6N itinerary
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
(Strava Day 1)
Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
(Strava Day 2)
Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
(Strava Day 3)
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
(Strava Day 4)
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
(Strava Day 5)
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
(Strava Day 6)
Day7 95km Namji to Busan
(Strava Day 7)
2)Part 1 and 2 of my custom Google Map will share my route, F&B and motels from Seoul to Busan. Do take note that I did not follow 100% 4 Rivers Route, skip Andong, and I did not search for all the certification booths.
6) No1 Tip. Google Map is almost useless in South Korea. You need to master Kakao and Naver Map quickly. These apps are life savers for your navigation and hunt for F&B and motels. (I would recommend Kakao as it displays the elevation too.)
=== Airport Logistics and Boxing = ===
I flew into Incheon airport, and departed via Busan airport. Many would choose to take a KTX train from Busan back to Seoul Incheon airport.
My trip was in October November, peak of autumn Foliage. Good weather and scenic autumn foliage routes.
You can check the same website for their Cherry Blossom forecast too!
Autumn Forecast for Korea 2023 (image credit Inmykorea.com)
Tip 2. Many choose to train or bus from Incheon Airport to Seoul downtown.
They can then cycle to Ara West start point (5km from Cheongna International City Station (Station GPS 37.556283, 126.624608).
* (Please correct me if I am wrong). Both foldies and road bikes need to be wrap before boarding. Foldies can go on the train any day, but road bikes only certain days, and only first or last cabin
** Search S2B Facebook for others’ Bus/train experiences, destination Ara West
Using Kakao Map, I cycled from Incheon airport, ferry over to Wolmi and cycled to Ara West (total 38km). This route is not for everyone, as logistics is not straightforward. I hope my YouTube video will help with your planning.
Tip 3. Cycle 20km Incheon airport to Ferry terminal Kakao Map link. https://kko.to/j-uz9v1mrL (Updated Feb2024, refer end of page for Naver alternative route)
Kakao Map cycling from Incheon airport to Ara West
However, first timers will find cycling out of Incheon airport intimidating. I hope my mistakes will help you navigate towards Ferry point safely. Refer to three screenshots.
Tip 3a. Using Kakao map. From airport, you will reach these 3 lanes.
(Estimated GPS 37.440727, 126.466127)
Take middle path and cycle towards Cargo Terminal. 20km to reach Ferry point. (My mistake was I took the rightmost lane, and went into the highway! I had to do a U-turn at CS petrol station)
Ferry location (GPS 37.49253, 126.58089)
Tip 3b. Grab the Incheon -> Wolmi ticket for 3500Won.
Ferry frequency is every 60mins, and trip is 20min.
(If you miss a boat, 60 minutes delay!)
Ferry from Incheon airport to Wolmi and Ara West
Once you disembark at Wolmi, I might recommend below Incheon landmark for a photo (GPS 37.47383, 126.59659), and maybe “Wolmido Lighthouse”.
(You will see Incheon and Wolmi being interchanged some times)
Tip 3c. Cycle 18km from Wolmi Ferry point to Ara West (Start point for 4 rivers trail). Refer Kakao Map -> https://kko.to/oSgKuGlnbp
Do expect uneven pavements, and plenty of kerbs for the first 10km.
My itinerary was to cycle estimated 36km from Incheon Airport to Ara West, followed by 40-50km towards downtown Seoul (Hongdae).
Tip 4. Ara West 0 km marker. You can buy your Certification Passbook near here (GPS 37.556827, 126.603891)
Tip 5. How to box your bicycle and fly.
Let us backtrack.
Before we even fly, the first challenge would be finding an airline which can accommodate your odd-size bicycle cardbox (Checkin limits, and cardboard dimensions etc)
I even had problems finding cardboard for my bike! Thanks to Liaoge for their help!
I had to YouTube and find out how others pack and bubble wrap their frames. We cannot assume that airport handlers will be gentle when then handle luggage :p
Since I have 25kg checkin allowance, I need to max out the cardboard content. Beside cycling stuffs, I need to pack for my off-bike days too.
Bike Boxing overseas
Packing your stuff into the panniers is an exercise too. We try to balance front back and left right. Those regular items should be packed on top.
My panniers and bags were already 1.5 to 2kg. Add in the 7D6N kit total 11kg extra! This will definitely provide additional resistance to your cycling experience.
Panniers for overseas cycling
Ready to depart Changi Airport for my first solo bike adventure!
Foldie Bike Boxing for overseas
Tip 6. Unboxing at Incheon took me another 60-80 minutes. The bike assembly was easy, but squeezing items into the panniers took time.
Bike unboxing at Incheon airport
Many curious folks will be staring at you 🙂
And I would recommend that you practice boxing and unboxing before the flight.
Fast forward to 633km (end point at Busan).
You will notice that 90% of folks arrive at Busan during the day. I arrived at 7pm 18 degrees, due to two punctures.
The dark welcome did not provide a lot of inspiration :p
Time to celebrate my achievement!
Korea Seoul to Busan Strava
Refer to my 7 days Strava links above.
Tip 7. Now how do you find a box in Busan to fly back?
Instead of flying out from Seoul, I chose to exit via Busan. Those who depart from Incheon would need to train back to Seoul, Incheon.
For public transport (train and bus), you would need to bag your bike.
Photo below, my reliable Muji bag, foldie and panniers.
My motel was only two stations away from Busan Airport (Gimhae International Airport).
Train to Busan airport
Take note that “full bikes” are not supposed to roll inside the airport compound. I supposed folding bikes have more leeway (cannot confirm)
I engaged Zim Carry’s bike boxing services.
(The alternate option would be to hunt for a bike box in Busan, and diy wrap your cardboard. You might need a taxi to cart your box to the airport).
Price breakdown:
Big bicycle box – 18,000Won
Leave box overnight – 15,000Won Total:33,000Won
(At $33 SGD, this is very affordable for convenience)
Just take note of Zim Carry’s short opening hours.
They close at 2000, and open at 0500.
If there is no queue, packing should be faster than 45 minutes.
Zim Carry’s respond time via Facebook messenger takes weeks!
(Perhaps they are not comfortable replying in English)
But this was unnecessary stress for bike travellers, I could not Find/Google for English tips about Zim Carry services etc.
Do get your Korean friends to call them if necessary.
Box and luggage storage pricing. My bicycle “Max” box was 15,000Won overnight.
Beside the bike, max out the box (25kg for SIA) with your accessories.
Please buy the bubble wrap to protect your frame too.
Bike Boxing overseas at Busan
Although Busan is an international airport, they only accommodate “smaller” planes. Please ensure your bike box (length = 156cm) is viable.
Mine barely pass Busan airport’s clearance!
My bike box need to enter the lift at a 45 degree angle 🙂
Bike Boxing overseas at odd-size counters
Adding a small feedback about Busan Airport’s poor Tax Refund SOP ( link).
Just take note that after scanning the QR code for your receipts, the tax-refund counter is inside the immigration segment (after passport clearance).
Google Map Review shows that “Tax Refund” is a recurring issue for Busan. Otherwise, other airport services are good.
Busan airport poor Tax Refund service
Milestone achieved! I went out of my comfort zone and challenged my own fitness and resourcefulness.
The cold mornings and early sunsets in Autumn presented some challenges.
Happy to complete my first solo overseas trip.
Tip X.
-You might be surprised but the hardest thing to commit is time (and taking leave). We can train our fitness, we can equip and upgrade our bike accessories, but it is so hard to get extended leave. (Do not forget to buy a nice souvenir for your supportive partner too!)
-As mentioned earlier, the easiest option would be to join a cycling group for your overseas ride. Besides a safety car, you can leave your heavy panniers inside the car! Some seasoned cyclists would have dedicated soft or hard casings for their bikes too. Once they land, they will engage local courier to ship their boxes to their destination. (Diy Bike Boxing overseas does give a sense of satisfaction)
-In case you are curious, the four rivers in Seoul to Busan are Hangang, Nakdonggang, Geumgang and Yeongsangang. I suspect you can cycle at least 50km next to the majestic Han river, this is longer than Singapore!
* (refer map below, updated 2024 Feb ) Naver Map indicated a shortcut is available (shaved 3km off to ferry, who can confirm route?)
– Take note it is only true for opposite direction! (ie from Ferry to airport)
– And there is a barrier between the lanes? Do we lift bikes over?
** Timing is of essence. Those who wish to cycle from Incheon airport towards Seoul will clock 80-90km easily. This is including 20min on the ferry.
If you cycle 20kmh average, you will need 4 hours + 20min Ferry for journey. (Need to add meal breaks. If you miss a ferry, add 1 hour delay! Thus plan with BUFFER to reach your motel in good time.)
