Bikepacking Seoul to Busan – Day 1 cycle to Seoul downtown

Bikepacking Seoul to Busan took me 7D6N. In my first post, I had shared about the logistics of bike boxing, and cycling out of Incheon Airport to Ara West.

As mentioned in my first blog post, it is almost 80km from Airport to Seoul (Hongdae). That would be easily 5 hours on the road, do buffer enough time to reach your motel earlier.

I only pre-book a motel for the first night, the other nights are all walk in. It is very discomforting for me, as I was worried about room and motel availability. Many folks have done it, you are safe.

 

Bikepacking Seoul to Busan

Breakdown of my Four River itinerary.
Total distance was 680km over 7D6N, elevation 3500m.

1)7D6N itinerary
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
(Strava Day 1)
Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
(Strava Day 2)
Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
(Strava Day 3)
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
(Strava Day 4)
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
(Strava Day 5)
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
(Strava Day 6)
Day7 95km Namji to Busan
(Strava Day 7)

Day 1 route from Incheon Airport -> Ferry -> Wolmi -> Ara West start point -> Seoul Hongdae . Doable but challenging, as there are many unknowns.

Incheon Ferry to Wolmi
Incheon Ferry seagulls
You may watch my Day 1 video first.

Day 1 Bike boxing, ferry and cycling from Incheon Airport to Ara West

Ara West would be the Start point of Seoul to Busan trail (aka Four Rivers).
You can get your passbook (passport) from here.

K-Water ( the architect for Four Rivers) came up with this passbook idea (and red certification booths), to encourage more folks to cycle and enjoy the river views.

Take note that my route did not capture all the red booths, as the journey itself was already packed with attractions (and memories).
Cyclists will spot these red booths and stamp their passbook. At the 633km end point (Busan), they can get a medal as badge of honour.
Certification booths and stamps Seoul to Busan

The only differences would be how many days do you need to complete Four Rivers trail.  Reasonably fit folks will take between 5 to 7 days. I took 7D6N with daily 90, 100km (including some detours), rolling speed of 23-25kmh.

I would strongly recommend you to buffer one extra day. For emergencies, or to explore more in one province. No need to rush.

Example.
My trip was cut short by 30km on Day 1, due to thunderstorm.
On the last day, two punctures delayed my  finale celebration.

Ara West Start point four rivers

Cycling Korea Autumn foliage

Cycling in autumn, beautiful foliage and earlier sunset (at 1745). This means I have one hour less to cycle every day, and I needed to do some (destination) adjustment.  In rural areas, it will be pitch dark by 1815.

 

Just follow the Four River signages (or blue lines) to stay on the bike trail.
Validate your route with Naver or Kakao Map (Kakao preferred as it shows you the elevations infront).

Since I arrived in Seoul downtown in the evening, the Blue lines and Red pavements assured me me that I am on the right track.
(Some Four rivers signages are already worn off)

Kakao and Naver Map are reliable, but it will be time consuming for first timers to only rely on on Kakao Map. Many self doubts.


Four rivers signage navigation

Getting dark, I arrived in my motel only at 2000. Would recommend you to arrive before sunset. I do not need extra anxiety from cycling in the dark and unfamiliar terrain/routes.

I should highlight that my route is not exactly four rivers route, ie following the red certification booths.

Refer map below, if you are going for stamps, follow the Red arrow. I had crossed Han river and stayed at Hongdae, because I wanted to visit some downtown attractions (red circle).

You may browse additional landmarks in my custom Google Map.
The “red” colour markers are the certification booths locations, thanks to a Mr Yoo.

There are at least 25 bridges across Han river, those following the “official” route need to know which bridge to take.

Anyway, Seoul Mansion Guest House was my motel for Day 1.

I had accidentally cycled extra 10km to another “Seoul Mansion”!

I actually shortlisted 10 motels nearby, and most will not allow you to roll bikes into the room.

Seoul motels recommendation
It was a cool temperature during Autumn evenings. It will get colder as I cycled South. (and morning 0800 can be 8-10 degrees)
Hongdae street vibes
Hongdae street busking

Hongdae street is only 10min walk from Motel.

Had wanted to stay near Hongdae, as I heard the busking and night vibes are happening. Kakao shop is popular for those looking for souvenirs or gifts.

Hongdae Kakao shop

Some random pork soup to warm the body. Meals in Korea would be around 8000 to 10000 per pax. I did encounter 2 restaurants who only serve minimum 3 pax, not single.

(wip) I might share my planning Gsheet later.

Day 1 Bikepacking Seoul to Busan would be easy for seasoned cyclists. Those new to bikepacking (including me) might wish to take note of a few things.

Additional Bikepacking Seoul to Busan tips

1)It is always easier to rent a bike in Korea (rather than ship over).
It is a luxury to cycle in a group (with support car), cycling solo means you are on your own, be it navigation or research (for motel and F&B).

..and the panniers will weigh you down.

2)Travelling solo will always be cheaper than a group package.
– Bikepacking expense estimation per item,  Motel (40,000 to 60,000 Won), Meal (8000 to 12000 Won), cafe (8000 to 10000 Won) and convenience stores snacks and drinks (2000 won) .

(Solo) Per day conservative budget can be between  SGD70 to 100 (70,000 to 100,000 Won). Total 7D6N would be an affordable SGD 490 (490,000 Won).

The most value meals are from convenience stores (like CU, GS25 etc), 5000 Won. I only budget 55,000Won on certain days.

A 7D6N packaged tour will easily set you back by 2,000 to 2,500 SGD (250,000 to 300,000 Won). (Inclusive 4 or 5 star hotels, support vehicle and guide etc)

3)We will always pack more in our pannier. You will feel every extra kilogram.  As you cycle more, you will learn how to pack front and back, left and right, for better balance.

Those things which are used frequently should not be unloaded (daily).
Fyi, last minute packing of pannier (especially mornings) is time-consuming.

4)It helps if you can shower in your jersey and pants :p
Just scrub down with soap, and dry your jersey with towels (overnight).
I bought 3 jerseys, but only wore two sets for 7 days (no extra odour).

5)Cycling 200km is different from cycling 2 x 100km. Train for multi-day cycling. Consecutive cycling will wear you down, I was on the road for 10-12 hours easily daily.

6)Coming from flat Singapore, there are limited elevation training grounds.
There are many slopes Big and Small in Korea’s four rivers route.
Some of us train on Malaysia slopes and gradient.

7)Cycling in cold weather is new for me too. Get a long-sleeve thermal jersey and long cycling pant. I have an inner layer to wick off any perspiration. The usual layering applies.

– Balaclava to cover my exposed neck and ear
– Full gloves (not half) to ensure all fingers are insulated
– I had an extra set of thermal (heat tech) as standby

Even at 20 degrees, you can feel the chills when the wind blows, or when you go downhill. Morning 0800 in the countryside can be as low as 8 to 10 degrees.

On the first few days, I noticed Korean cyclists covering their mouths. I did not, and my lips were numb from cool weather exposure.

Be it Autumn or Spring, I have no doubt that you will fully savoured what Four Rivers trail has to offer.

Resources:

a)Part 1 and 2 of my custom Google Map will share my route, F&B and motels from Seoul to Busan. Do take note that I did not follow 100% 4 Rivers Route, skip Andong, and I did not search for all the certification booths.
I have indicated “Purple markers” to represent Detours and Slopes.

(Part 1 Seoul to Sangji) Red dots depict the Certification Booths.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1wkn6Pfp_OownBmnRM_C3gOaBEOos-pU&usp=sharing

Gpx of Seoul to Busan Trail


(Part 2 Sangji to Busan here)

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=16LLQuW-Xw9wna0ifgsfTBmLnOzz74ug&usp=sharing

b)YouTube videos of my 4 Rivers trail (wip)

Day 1 Bike boxing, ferry and cycling from Incheon Airport to Ara West

Day 2 – 4 Rivers trail Seoul to Yeoju

Day 3 – Yeoju to Suanbo

Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi (submit two mountains)

Day 5 90km SangjuSi towards Gumi and Daegu

Day 6 114km from Daegu to Namji (Hardest segment for me)

Finale. Day 7 95km from Namji to Busan (end point)
I am still working on the other videos, do browse through all the photos in album below.

Korea Four Rivers Photos

c) 300+ Facebook photos over 7D6N
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10231495769562405&type=3

d) Seoul to Busan blog :
Day 0 Summary – Bike Boxing overseas and cycling from Incheon Airport to Seoul
Day 1 – Bikepacking Seoul to Busan – Day 1 cycle to Seoul downtown
Day 2 – Bikepacking 4 Rivers – Day 2 to Yeoju
Day 3 – Cycling Seoul to Busan – Day 3 Yangpyeong to Suanbo

Bike Boxing overseas and cycling from Incheon Airport to Seoul

Bike boxing overseas was one of the challenges, when I decided to solo Seoul to Busan trail, aka 4 Rivers.
After 7D6N 680km in October 2023, I successfully completed the 4 rivers trail. This was a new milestone for me.

but, there were many doubts …

How should I plan my days, where should I stay? Will language and food be an issue? Can I scale the mountains? I will miss Google!

Surprisingly, the two initial doubts are those of bicycle boxing (and courier), and how to travel out of Incheon Airport with my bicycle!

What happens if my bike does not arrive? Or if damaged during transit?
It is always easier to rent a bike from Korea, but I wanted to challenge myself.
~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

This is the first blog post of my journey, and I will focus on Bicycle Boxing and cycling out of Incheon airport (a novelty).

The next few posts will focus on the itinerary and experiences.

Summary and photos videos of my 7D6N journey.

1)7D6N itinerary
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
(Strava Day 1)
Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
(Strava Day 2)
Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
(Strava Day 3)
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
(Strava Day 4)
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
(Strava Day 5)
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
(Strava Day 6)
Day7 95km Namji to Busan
(Strava Day 7)

2)Part 1 and 2 of my custom Google Map will share my route, F&B and motels from Seoul to Busan. Do take note that I did not follow 100% 4 Rivers Route, skip Andong, and I did not search for all the certification booths.

(Part 1 Seoul to Sangji here) Red dots depict the Certification Booths.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1wkn6Pfp_OownBmnRM_C3gOaBEOos-pU&usp=sharing

Gpx of Seoul to Busan Trail


(Part 2 Sangji to Busan here)

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=16LLQuW-Xw9wna0ifgsfTBmLnOzz74ug&usp=sharing

3)YouTube videos of my 4 Rivers trail (wip)

Day 1 Bike boxing, ferry and cycling from Incheon Airport to Ara West

Day 2 – 4 Rivers trail Seoul to Yeoju

Day 3 – Yeoju to Suanbo

Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi (submit two mountains)

Day 5 90km SangjuSi towards Gumi and Daegu

Day 6 114km from Daegu to Namji (Hardest segment for me)

Finale. Day 7 95km from Namji to Busan (end point)

I am still working on the other videos, do browse through all the photos in album below.

Korea Four Rivers Photos

4) 300+ Facebook photos over 7D6N
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10231495769562405&type=3

*5)Facebook groups for your research
Seoul to Busan and Beyond (SBB)
*Korea Cycling Community (Refer to their useful FAQs here)

6) No1 Tip. Google Map is almost useless in South Korea. You need to master Kakao and Naver Map quickly. These apps are life savers for your navigation and hunt for F&B and motels. (I would recommend Kakao as it displays the elevation too.)

=== Airport Logistics and Boxing = ===

I flew into Incheon airport, and departed via Busan airport. Many would choose to take a KTX train from Busan back to Seoul Incheon airport.

My trip was in October November, peak of autumn Foliage. Good weather and scenic autumn foliage routes.

You can check the same website for their Cherry Blossom forecast too!

Autumn Forecast for Korea 2023 (image credit Inmykorea.com)

Tip 2. Many choose to train or bus from Incheon Airport to Seoul downtown.
They can then cycle to Ara West start point (5km from Cheongna International City Station (Station GPS 37.556283, 126.624608).

* (Please correct me if I am wrong). Both foldies and road bikes need to be wrap before boarding. Foldies can go on the train any day, but road bikes only certain days, and only first or last cabin

** Search S2B Facebook for others’ Bus/train experiences, destination Ara West

Using Kakao Map, I cycled from Incheon airport, ferry over to Wolmi and cycled to Ara West (total 38km). This route is not for everyone, as logistics is not straightforward. I hope my YouTube video will help with your planning.

Tip 3. Cycle 20km Incheon airport to Ferry terminal Kakao Map link.
https://kko.to/j-uz9v1mrL (Updated Feb2024, refer end of page for Naver alternative route)

Kakao Map cycling from Incheon airport to Ara West

However, first timers will find cycling out of Incheon airport intimidating. I hope my mistakes will help you navigate towards Ferry point safely. Refer to three screenshots.

Tip 3a. Using Kakao map. From airport, you will reach these 3 lanes.
(Estimated GPS 37.440727, 126.466127)

Take middle path and cycle towards Cargo Terminal. 20km to reach Ferry point. (My mistake was I took the rightmost lane, and went into the highway! I had to do a U-turn at CS petrol station)

 

Ferry location (GPS 37.49253, 126.58089)

Tip 3b.
Grab the Incheon -> Wolmi ticket for 3500Won.
Ferry frequency is every 60mins, and trip is 20min.

(If you miss a boat, 60 minutes delay!)

Ferry from Incheon airport to Wolmi and Ara West

Once you disembark at Wolmi, I might recommend below Incheon landmark for a photo (GPS 37.47383, 126.59659), and maybe “Wolmido Lighthouse”.

(You will see Incheon and Wolmi being interchanged some times)

Tip 3c. Cycle 18km from Wolmi Ferry point to Ara West (Start point for 4 rivers trail). Refer Kakao Map -> https://kko.to/oSgKuGlnbp

Do expect uneven pavements, and plenty of kerbs for the first 10km.

My itinerary was to cycle estimated 36km from Incheon Airport to Ara West, followed by 40-50km towards downtown Seoul (Hongdae).

Tip 3d. Refer Ara West to Seoul Downtown Kakao Map direction https://kko.to/KvV8H3L0yG

Ara West start point

Tip 4. Ara West 0 km marker. You can buy your Certification Passbook near here (GPS 37.556827, 126.603891)

Tip 5. How to box your bicycle and fly.

Let us backtrack.
Before we even fly, the first challenge would be finding an airline which can accommodate your odd-size bicycle cardbox (Checkin limits, and cardboard dimensions etc)

I even had problems finding cardboard for my bike! Thanks to Liaoge for their help!

I had to YouTube and find out how others pack and bubble wrap their frames. We cannot assume that airport handlers will be gentle when then handle luggage :p

Since I have 25kg checkin allowance, I need to max out the cardboard content. Beside cycling stuffs, I need to pack for my off-bike days too.

Bike Boxing overseas

Packing your stuff into the panniers is an exercise too. We try to balance front back and left right. Those regular items should be packed on top.

My panniers and bags were already 1.5 to 2kg. Add in the 7D6N kit total 11kg extra! This will definitely provide additional resistance to your cycling experience.

Panniers for overseas cycling

Ready to depart Changi Airport for my first solo bike adventure!

Foldie Bike Boxing for overseas

 

Tip 6. Unboxing at Incheon took me another 60-80 minutes. The bike assembly was easy, but squeezing items into the panniers took time.

Bike unboxing at Incheon airport

Many curious folks will be staring at you 🙂
And I would recommend that you practice boxing and unboxing before the flight.

Fast forward to 633km (end point at Busan).

You will notice that 90% of folks arrive at Busan during the day. I arrived at 7pm 18 degrees, due to two punctures.

The dark welcome did not provide a lot of inspiration :p
Time to celebrate my achievement!

Korea Seoul to Busan Strava

Refer to my 7 days Strava links above.

 

Tip 7. Now how do you find a box in Busan to fly back?
Instead of flying out from Seoul, I chose to exit via Busan. Those who depart from Incheon would need to train back to Seoul, Incheon.

For public transport (train and bus), you would need to bag your bike.
Photo below, my reliable Muji bag, foldie and panniers.

My motel was only two stations away from Busan Airport (Gimhae International Airport).

Train to Busan airport

Take note that “full bikes” are not supposed to roll inside the airport compound. I supposed folding bikes have more leeway (cannot confirm)

I engaged Zim Carry’s bike boxing services.
(The alternate option would be to hunt for a bike box in Busan, and diy wrap your cardboard. You might need a taxi to cart your box to the airport).

Price breakdown:

Big bicycle box – 18,000Won
Leave box overnight – 15,000Won
Total:33,000Won
(At $33 SGD, this is very affordable for convenience)

Just take note of Zim Carry’s short opening hours.
They close at 2000, and open at 0500.
If there is no queue, packing should be faster than 45 minutes.

Zim Carry’s respond time via Facebook messenger takes weeks!
(Perhaps they are not comfortable replying in English)
But this was unnecessary stress for bike travellers, I could not Find/Google for English tips about Zim Carry services etc.

Do get your Korean friends to call them if necessary.


Box and luggage storage pricing. My bicycle “Max” box was 15,000Won overnight.

Beside the bike, max out the box (25kg for SIA) with your accessories.
Please buy the bubble wrap to protect your frame too.

Bike Boxing overseas at Busan

Although Busan is an international airport, they only accommodate “smaller” planes. Please ensure your bike box (length = 156cm) is viable.
Mine barely pass Busan airport’s clearance!

My bike box need to enter the lift at a 45 degree angle 🙂

Bike Boxing overseas at odd-size counters

Adding a small feedback about Busan Airport’s poor Tax Refund SOP ( link).
Just take note that after scanning the QR code for your receipts, the tax-refund counter is inside the immigration segment (after passport clearance).

Google Map Review shows that “Tax Refund” is a recurring issue for Busan. Otherwise, other airport services are good.

Busan airport poor Tax Refund service

 

Milestone achieved! I went out of my comfort zone and challenged my own fitness and resourcefulness.

The cold mornings and early sunsets in Autumn presented some challenges.
Happy to complete my first solo overseas trip.

Tip X.

-You might be surprised but the hardest thing to commit is time (and taking leave). We can train our fitness, we can equip and upgrade our bike accessories, but it is so hard to get extended leave. (Do not forget to buy a nice souvenir for your supportive partner too!)

-As mentioned earlier, the easiest option would be to join a cycling group for your overseas ride. Besides a safety car, you can leave your  heavy panniers inside the car! Some seasoned cyclists would have dedicated soft or hard casings for their bikes too. Once they land, they will engage local courier to ship their boxes to their destination. (Diy Bike Boxing overseas does give a sense of satisfaction)

-In case you are curious, the four rivers in Seoul to Busan are Hangang, Nakdonggang, Geumgang and Yeongsangang. I suspect you can cycle at least 50km next to the majestic Han river, this is longer than Singapore!

* (refer map below, updated 2024 Feb )
Naver Map indicated a shortcut is available (shaved 3km off to ferry, who can confirm route?)
– Take note it is only true for opposite direction! (ie from Ferry to airport)
– And there is a barrier between the lanes? Do we lift bikes over?

 

** Timing is of essence. Those who wish to cycle from Incheon airport towards Seoul will clock 80-90km easily. This is including 20min on the ferry.

If you cycle 20kmh average, you will need 4 hours + 20min Ferry for journey. (Need to add meal breaks. If you miss a ferry, add 1 hour delay!  Thus plan with BUFFER to reach your motel in good time.)

* Seoul to Busan blog :
Day 0 Summary – Bike Boxing overseas and cycling from Incheon Airport to Seoul
Day 1 – Bikepacking Seoul to Busan – Day 1 cycle to Seoul downtown
Day 2 – Bikepacking 4 Rivers – Day 2 to Yeoju
Day 3 – Cycling Seoul to Busan – Day 3 Yangpyeong to Suanbo

ps.. YouTube : Cycle Taiwan Hualien to Taitung with kids (this is still my most memorable overseas ride)

Blog – https://sengkangbabies.com/holiday/day-2-cycling-hualien-to-ruisui