bike packing Seoul to Busan Archives

Cycling Seoul to Busan – Day 3 Yangpyeong to Suanbo

Cycling Seoul to Busan on Day 3 took me from Yangpyeong 양평군 to Suanbo, total 123km.

(This is part of my 7D6N Korea 4 Rivers trail, total 680km and over 3500m elevation)

~~~ ~~~ 7D6N solo bikepacking itinerary ~~~ ~~~
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
*Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
Day7 95km Namji to Busan

~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

On day 2, thunderstorm forced me to stop 30km short of Yeoju.
This is my day 3 Strava record, I needed to make up for Day 2 extra 30km.

When people hear Suanbo, they will remember the hotspring and Sauna town. When cyclists hear SUANBO, they will remember the two peaks!

Refer KakaoMap image below, you will see an elevation of 530m+ for the second peak.

It took me 45 min and 70 min respectively to submit first and second mountain. Second one stands at 530m, and is 4km long!

(If it helps, let me assure you that the elevation on Day 6, after Musimsa temple will be steeper :p )

Back to our Day 3 itinerary, I rode across the river and continued on my way.

You may refer to my Day 3 video below.( I also shared why you should choose another motel in Suanbo.)

Anyway, this is my Day 3 route and map. The highlights are:
1- Yeoju town
2- Gangcheonseom Island (stunning flowering and views in Spring and Autumn)
3- Skipped Andong(충주댐 인증센터), 25km to and fro trip.

Scenic pathway next to the river, with a mini lighthouse.

You will still see many farm lands and orchids along the route.

If time permits, I would have love to pick some apples or oranges.

My third day of consecutive cycling. Unless you are a triathlete, you should feel some strain from your leg and back. This is normal.

It did not take me long to encounter my first 10% climb at (GPS 37.4426950, 127.5151004). This would be super easy for MTB and road bikes, but slightly more challenging for small wheels with panniers.

If I had continued through the rain yesterday, it would have been miserable when I hit this slope. Wet, tired and climb. I might have missed the opportunity to find a motel to stay dry and safe.

This is part of the disadvantage of solo cycling. You do not have a buddy to help navigate or plan. Every decision, and detour has to be improvised on the GO.

One person ride disadvantages:
-Hard to have Plan B
-No one to pull or draft
-Self service. If fall or puncture, diy
-Navigate and ride on the go, ensure you are on the right segment
-Research for pit stop and meals

But I enjoy the challenges and FREEDOM from solo cycling! Cycling Seoul to Busan brought back epic memories for me

Other than the slopes, cycling in the countryside is always more scenic and relaxing compared to urban areas.

Fyi, it is the ‘unknown’ slopes ( or roller-coasters) which will wear you down. Smaller wheels and panniers will have it worse.

Talking and singing to oneself does help to break the monotonous ride.

How can you not stop to take a photo?

Plenty of fantastic rivers and mountainous view, and beautiful man-made dams. The journey and milestones are always more memorable than the endpoint.

Ipobo weir observatory in the background. I love these mini pavilions. Ideal for breaks, shelters and even camp.

Salute to those cross country cyclists who are into camping. you have to pack more things and “rough” it out in the cold.

As you find more phone booths, you might bump into other cyclists. We are all out to enjoy the day and adventures.

Many dams and bridges criss crossing the waterways.

Near to urban areas, you should be able to spot convenience stores and cafes. Cheesecake and flat white to refresh(Cafe 숲)

I left my bike unlocked across the road. It is very safe to leave your bikes unattended when you visit cafes or even loo. Do be vigilant 🙃

I admit. I felt uneasy leaving my bikes unattended.

In Singapore, folks will vandalise or even steal unattended bikes! (Sad).

Although we bikepack along the 4 rivers, there is always a Mountain range nearby! This is a big deal from Flat Singapore.

Once you see this helicopter (on the roof) or a gorilla sitting on a bench, you are in Yeogu. There will be a popular SunValley hotel nearby. This area was where I was supposed to end on Day 2.

Dams are maintained by K Water ( water agency). Do take a lift up the observation towers to enjoy a 360 view too.

15 degrees Autumn is best weather for bike packing. Feels like Aircon, but wind can be chilling at times. Balaclava is still recommended, the chill can get to you post-ride.

You will notice that Koreans are all covered up, learn from them.

Take note that temperature will drop South along cycling Seoul to Busan (via Gumi, Daegu, Namji etc). Morning 8am can be as cold as 8 degrees.

Many folks will come to this slope after Yeoju stretch. It is steep and bumpy. Not recommended to cycle down, unless you are riding a mtb.

Keep rolling. Blue signages will indicate your location and next town. You should be familiar with Papago app by now.

This App is a lifesaver to help you understand what you are ordering from your Korean menu.

I cycled into Gangcheonseom Island before noon. Cheekily nicknamed the ‘island’ as Singapore Coney Island.

This island is recommended during Spring and Autumn!
Yellow ginkgo welcomed me from every corner!

Some might tell you that gingko fruits have a fermented rotten smell.

Expect some mild trail tracks. It will be muddy after rain.

Checkout our Video 5min to view the magnificent Yellow views.

A 10% gradient awaits after you exit the island.

Climb slowly for 500m (GPS 37.2449573, 127.7246872)

Even while climbing, do enjoy the views of the river and valleys.

I could see the sun rays piercing through the clouds.

Pointing out the small path below the bridge, excited to cycle through the valleys.

It will be rare for you to meet any humans along this stretch.

You only have the river and mountains to keep you company.

This signage always amused me. Why would anyone cycle into the river?

Maybe the fence is too low, some might accidentally topple over?

Bibimbap lunch at an underrated eatery (부론보리밥집)

Only one item on the menu here. Friendly boss will gesture for you to sit, before he brings out the banchan (side dishes).

Delicious home cook comfort food and sweet seafood broth! Besides the ‘main dish’, I actually prefer savouring the various banchan!

Salty, spicy, sour or sweet, surprise me 😋

Flood warnings! Flooding is very common during rainy seasons. Entire pathways can be submerged, and cyclists will need to detour.

Refer map picture below . I remembered this segment where I could roll for 10km with no cars behind! The whole countryside and road was mine to enjoy.

(37.1097688, 127.8094714) near Binaeseom Certification Center (비내섬 인증센터 (남한강 자전거길). If you cannot find the certification booth in Kakao Map, try ‘비내쉼터’.

Took a break at this pavilion. It is always interesting to people watch.

Otherwise, watching golden padi fields wavering in the wind is pretty cool too. Magnificent golden reflection from the sun.

Lovely planks parallel to the waterway.. I was a bit concerned that the moist leaves might be slippery.

It is much safer to cycle on the planks, instead of the narrow roads.

Reached Jungangtap historic park, and acted like a tourist. This ancient pagoda is famous.

Besides the pagoda, there is a pavement which allows you to cycle above the water, pond. Expect scenic sunset or sunrise.

At this point (5pm), I already knew I needed two more hours to reach Suanbo. Quickly make a pitstop at emart24 to recharge. Topup water and carbohydrate (chocolate) for the last 20km.

You never know when is the next ‘refilling’ point.

Cyclists do take note that Korea petrol stations do not sell food or drinks!

I ended around 7pm+, and had to cycle 10km in pitch dark (not cool).
The only thing keeping me on the right path is KakaoMap navigation.

You can refer to video clip from 12min onwards here.

Fyi, I had researched whether it would make sense to rest only after clearing the two mountains. Ie, finding a motel in town Mungyrong. That would be extra 28km from Suanbo.

This is only recommended for strong cyclists.
The two climbs will wear you down. Refer to our Day 4 Video here.

I did not do my homework, and chose Suanbo Park Hotel. This hotel is ok but there are more affordable motels around.

Single pax room was out, thus I needed to pay 141 000 won for a twin room. Too expensive (I could have secured x2 decent motel for this rate) and I had no interest to use the sauna.

There was a STEEP 100m climb up the the hotel! (at least 15 to 20% gradient!) Please avoid the climb and choose motel near center Suanbo.

My dinner was pheasant bird, 10000 Won.

Try to rest early, as Day 4 will start with CLIMBS!

=== ===

RESOURCES:

a)Part 1 and 2 of my custom Google Map will share my route, F&B and motels from Seoul to Busan. Do take note that I did not follow 100% 4 Rivers Route, skip Andong, and I did not search for all the certification booths.

I have indicated “Purple markers” to represent Detours and Slopes.

(Part 1 Seoul to Sangju) Red dots depict the Certification Booths.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1wkn6Pfp_OownBmnRM_C3gOaBEOos-pU&usp=sharing

(Part 2 Sangju to Busan here)
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=16LLQuW-Xw9wna0ifgsfTBmLnOzz74ug&usp=sharing

b)YouTube videos of my 4 Rivers trail (wip)

Day 1 Bike boxing, ferry and cycling from Incheon Airport to Ara West

Day 2 – 4 Rivers trail Seoul to Yeoju

Day 3 – Yeoju to Suanbo

Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi (submit two mountains)

Day 5 90km SangjuSi towards Gumi and Daegu

Day 6 114km from Daegu to Namji (Hardest segment for me)

I am still working on the other videos, do browse through all the photos in album below.

c) 300+ Facebook photos over 7D6N
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10231495769562405&type=3

d) Seoul to Busan blog :
Day 0 Summary – Bike Boxing overseas and cycling from Incheon Airport to Seoul
Day 1 – Bikepacking Seoul to Busan – Day 1 cycle to Seoul downtown
Day 2 – Bikepacking 4 Rivers – Day 2 to Yeoju
Day 3 – Cycling Seoul to Busan – Day 3 Yangpyeong to Suanbo

Bikepacking 4 Rivers – Day 2 to Yeoju

Day 2 of Bikepacking 4 Rivers brought me through the heart of Seoul.

Take note that this is a detour from the main “Four Rivers” trail.
Refer custom Google Map‘s red icons for more clarity (or confusion :p )

~~~ 7D6N solo bikepacking itinerary~~~ ~~~ ~~~
Day1 90km IncheonAirport to AraWest to Hongdae
*Day2 90km Seoul to Yangpyeong
Day3 123km Yangpyeong to Suanbo
Day4 82km Suanbo to SangjuSi
Day5 90km SangjuSi to Daegu
Day6 114km Daegu to Namji
Day7 95km Namji to Busan

~~~ ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

Day 2 – 4 Rivers trail Seoul to Yeoju

Refer picture below. I had purposely detoured because I wanted to explore some famous attractions in downtown Seoul on two wheels.

Kakao Map and Naver Map will likely ask you to cycle on BUSY pedestrian foot paths. And Seoul is packed with folks!

You are unlikely to cycle faster than 15kmh on the pavements.

If confident, go on the roads. But I have shared before that cyclists are not really welcomed by other road users.

Deoksugung Palace

One of the external wall of this palace is famous for Autumn Foliage, but I went to the wrong wall! (facing police station).

Go to “GPS 37.564859, 126.975467” instead.

Deoksugung Palace Autumn wall (Image credit Google Maps)

Famous Landmark at Gwanghwamun Square

King Sejong the Great landmark attraction

Gyeongbokgung Palace (경복궁) should be the most famous and elaborate palace in Seoul. You cannot cycle inside the Palace compound.

You can bring your bike around to the carpark behind (for tourist coaches), and walk through the other gate (Roughly GPS 37.576565, 126.978250).

Try to aim for the 1000 change-of-guard ceremony. Seoul attractions palaces

The famous Cheonggyecheon Stream in downtown Seoul, waterway should be nicer under evening illumination.

Quick breakfast before I head towards War Memorial. There are plenty of F&B options in Seoul. Beargels coffee set is slightly more expensive, at 11000 Won.

Folks will tell you that security in Seoul (and Korea) is good. Most cyclists will just leave their bicycles outside cafe or toilet unlocked. Trust the locals 🙂

Gate fortress “Sungnyemun 숭례문” is at a busy round-about intersection.

Cycled past Seoul Station (서울역) without realising. I just noticed the outstanding colonial style facade.

By now, you would notice that all “Korean” characters look very similar! This will be a headache when you try to “Kakao or Naver” nearby attractions, Motel or even F&B! It was hard for me to differentiate the characters.

(As a comparison, it is easier to differentiate between Japanese characters)

Cycle past Colonial style building Seoul Station

Cycling on the road is faster and more efficient than pavement. However I only chose roads with wider lanes to accommodate cyclists. Refer to Kakao Tips below paragraph. (Safety first).

War Memorial of Korea exhibition carries relics from Korean War. The outdoor exhibits are free for tourists.

This vessel was sunk by North Korea, and the bullet holes are real.

Seoul War memorial navy vessel bullet holes

Although I might have detoured significantly from original Bikepacking 4 Rivers route, I enjoyed the sightseeing in downtown Seoul.

1)Go Easy with planning

I was a bit ambitious (greedy) and tried to covered too many attractions. This affected my itinerary and delayed my motel checkin in the evening.

Plan realistically and maybe conservatively. There are too many attractions and you will not have enough time or energy to cover all. Prioritise.

Fortunately, I skipped hiking 2 hours up “Inwangsan Mountain Park” or cycling up Seoul Tower (both offers elevated view of Seoul skyline). Take note that Seoul Tower slope is steep, and some segments are shared with coaches. (Be careful).

Both activities will require some amount of exertion and would definitely stretched my time.

These were NOT the most ambitious part of my planning! I was supposed to extend my bikepacking trip by five days and 500km. Taking a three-hour ferry from Busan to Fukuoka, before cycling North to Hiroshima and Shimanami Kaido (The most beautiful bike path in Japan). What was I thinking 🙂

Do pop by our Kyushu itinerary (九州 ) too. Kyushu is super underrated and we really enjoyed our family trip back in Jan 2023.

Cycled across to the South side of Han River, and followed “Red” path. I am back on Four Rivers Trail.

Refering to map below, after cycling across Han River, I turned East towards Yeoju direction. Due to thunderstorm, I was forced to stop at “X” Yangpyeong corner, which was 30km short.

Korea four rivers map

For those who are going after certification stamps (and booths), do refer to the “Red” markers in my custom Google Map. These are the certification booths (credit Mr Yoo).

2)Kakao Map tips

1) Choose “Bicycle option”, and you might noticed three “Coloured lanes” recommendations.

–Red (dedicated bike lanes). In city area, do expect pedestrians on red paths too :p (In rural area, the whole bike lanes are yours)
–Green (Shared with vehicles, a small lane reserved for bicycles)
–Blue is slowest (pavement with pedestrians and obstacles. Even parked vehicles.)

2) You can checkout the elevation and gradient forecast at bottom of Kakao screen. This was useful for me to pre-empt any slopes infront. I could then decide to pitstop before or after the gradient.

Seoul is a huge metropolis and Han river stretches for at least 50km! (longer than Singapore). There are at least 25 bridges spanning Han river!

Choosing which bridge to criss-cross becomes more complicated.
These bridges are illuminated and beautiful in the evenings.

Detour again to visit some cute Gangnam locals (K Star Road).

View of Seoul skyline from southern side of Han River. I suspect the air quality was bad (Psi 150+) as the sky was a bit hazy.

Onwards to Seoul Olympic Park, you might pass through some beautiful bike paths. The “corridor” is packed with stunning Autumn Foliage, and fallen maple leaves littered the ground.

This is like Singapore’s PCN (Park Connector), except Korean version is more elaborate. They even have round-abouts!

Cycling infrastructures Seoul bike paths

South Korea cycling infrastructure is top notch!

Checkout the colourful toilets, and you will spot many “sports” corners too.
Outdoor gym, badminton and other activities.

Koreans are spoilt for choice.Toilets along Seoul bike paths

GS25, CU, eMart and 7-11 are your best friends. Refill and recharge. They offer the cheapest set meals too (at 5000 Won, but delicious).

I left my Insta360 at GS25, fortunately the staff found me seated outside enjoying my coffee. Thank You!

Seoul (Korea) is famous for Autumn Foliage.
And Seoul has a few majestic parks to admire the orange and yellow hues.

Besides Olympic Park, the other one is “Seoul Forest Park“.
(Although most tourists would only head to Nami Island)

South Korea had hosted 1988 Olympics and 2002 World Cup. Thus you can find Olympic Stadiums (Olympic and WorldCup) in downtown too.

I only had time for Olympic Park (as Olympic Stadium required a weird detour).

Supposed to be two rows of gingko trees along Olympic Park permiter. Would be awesome yellow corridor during full bloom.

Love this “fantasy” playground, background all yellow.
My phone camera is not doing justice to the actual colours! (which is more vibrant)

Muhly (pink vegetation) is on a small plot of land, but Gingko and maple trees are all over Olympic Park. I suspect Cherry Blossoms would also be blooming during Spring.

Near to this location (GPS 37.58286, 127.19616), my wheels ran over the crispy carpet of maple leaves! So soothing and therapeutic.

Refer my YouTube link (8min50s).

After exiting the busy hub of Seoul downtown, the bicycle traffic also reduced significantly.

Bikepacking 4 Rivers felt like an exclusive event for those who do Solo 🙂

Whenever you bump into the rare cyclists or joggers, you felt a sense of comfort, that you are not alone. Somehow, you hope you are on the correct path.

Around 1645 (considered late, since sunset at 1745), I reached an old train station “Neungnae train station“.

Red Phone booth for your achievement stamp.

But the highlight for me was the wooden and Iron bridge (Yangsu Railway Bridge 양수철교) over the Hang Gang river (which is still part of Han river).

These were repurposed from old Train tracks.
When you roll over the wooden planks, it sounds like a mini train is rolling over.

1730 Early dinner Chicken popcorn (인생닭강정 두물머리점).

I needed to boost my energy, as I was still 50km from Yeoju!
Timing is very late, as I could only reach around 2000.

And Windy (app) had forecasted a thunderstorm closing in on me.

(GPS tunnel 37.53809, 127.34687)

Towards Yeoju direction, you will come across at least 9 such tunnels!
Trains used to run through the tunnels, but now only cyclists and pedestrians.

Surreal experience.

I tried to push through the incoming thunderstorm for 30-45minutes, but it was hopeless. Plan B required me to quickly search for nearest motel.

If I were caught in a thunderstrom, it would be dangerous and miserable. This was only Day 2.

Pushed through another 20km to reach my Motel. I was fortunate as the rain poured literally minutes after I checkin!

Checkin to motel at 1930.
I am 36km away from my planned end point in Yeoju.

This was a lesson to remind me not to underestimate the efforts and distance, yet I repeat same mistake at least twice :p

The motel 지오모텔 G.O motel was 1.5km from Yangpyeong certification booth (I needed to cycle across the river).

Basic motel, not for fussy folks.
But the boss (or administrator) was very friendly.

(I could not bring bike to room, thus chain to his scooter on first floor)

3) Motel cost

Fyi, a motel stay in Korea would cost between 40,000 to 60,000 Won. Decent quality and relatively cheap.

For comparison, a meal would easily cost between 10000-12000 Won.

Motels in Korea are also known as Love Hotels, but I did not encounter any sleezy incidents.

Dinner 18000 Won chicken BHC chicken.

4) Referring to Kakao and Naver map comparison

Below is is one more reason why we cannot 100% trust Google Map review in Korea.

I was searching for restaurants which opens late near motel. Two 24-hours restaurant was closed! Perhaps their operational hours were not updated post-Covid? Kakao and Naver Maps would have provided more updated details.

I ended up with BHC chicken for dinner. It was delicious, and boss was friendly. But the bucket could feed 3 pax, and I had to share with fellow motel guests.

So instead of 120km, I ended day 2 with 90km.
This means I need to start earlier to make up for the 30km deficit.

More Tips for Bikepacking 4 Rivers (newbies):

5) It is easy to underestimate the effort needed to complete the 633km Bikepacking 4 rivers trail. Some folks might assume since we are cycling on dedicated bike paths, it will be straightforward.

6) Do factor in the efforts and strains from multi-day cycling.
It will be more complicated when you attempt a solo trip.

I am not trying to scare people off, but we need to respect the efforts needed for 633km. Fortunately, there are plenty of online resources to help with your planning.

Some personal opinions.

7) Although most will say motels are readily available.

I would recommend researching some “populated township” beforehand (maybe mid day). You should be able to estimate how much more you wish to cover before resting.

Due to inexperience, I had to cycle in the night (total darkness) in some rural areas before I reach my motel. (20km distance might mean one extra hour of cycling, if average 20kmh)

8) Cycling at night will be more risky. Cars might not be paying attention, you might lose concentration after a full day of exertion. The Autumn cold weather (15degrees) makes it more miserable.

Most importantly, you will miss all the scenic spots in the darkness!

9) The known slopes are easy to manage, just PUSH if cannot climb. (ie two mountains after Suanbo). But it is the unknown endless slopes (spikes) which will wear you down. Make use of momentum.